A Nostalgic Journey through Şişhane: ece temelkuran kilo kose yazisi Reflection on Childhood and Cultural Heritage

A Nostalgic Journey through Şişhane: Ece Temelkuran’s Reflection on Childhood and Cultural Heritage

Introduction

Ece Temelkuran, a renowned Turkish journalist, author, and columnist, takes readers on a nostalgic journey through her childhood memories in Şişhane, a historic neighborhood in Istanbul. In her reflective piece titled “Kilo Köşe Yazısı,” she not only recounts her early life experiences but also delves into the rich cultural tapestry of the area, shaped by diverse communities, including Sephardic Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Muslims. This article explores Temelkuran’s vivid recollections, her family’s heritage, and the unique cultural dynamics of Şişhane and Balat, offering a glimpse into the intertwined histories of Istanbul’s neighborhoods.

Childhood Memories in Şişhane: A Winter’s Tale

The Day I Was Born: A Winter Wonderland in Şişhane

Ece Temelkuran was born on a snowy winter day in Şişhane, a neighborhood that has long been immortalized in Turkish literature. The timing of her birth, during a heavy snowfall, creates a picturesque backdrop for her entry into the world. Şişhane, a district known for its historical significance, is described in Haldun Taner’s literary masterpiece “Şişhane’ye Yağmur Yağıyordu.” However, in Temelkuran’s case, the rain was replaced by snow, adding a unique twist to the story.

The Yaeş Apartmanı: A Unique Family Home

Temelkuran’s early years were spent in Yaeş Apartmanı, a building located on Bankalar Caddesi. This building, with its distinctive name derived from a Jewish surname, captured the attention of passersby due to its intriguing history. The apartment where she lived with her family had a magnificent view of the Golden Horn (Haliç) and was characterized by its small yet charming layout.

The Charm of Şişhane: A Community’s Heartbeat

Şişhane was not just a neighborhood; it was a vibrant community where life unfolded in a way that was both familiar and extraordinary. One of the most fascinating aspects of Temelkuran’s childhood was the proximity of her home to the local fire station. As a young girl, she would sit by the window, watching the fire trucks speed out of the station whenever there was an emergency. The excitement and urgency of these moments left a lasting impression on her.

The Simitçi’s Call: A Morning Ritual

Another vivid memory from Temelkuran’s childhood in Şişhane is the morning call of the simitçi (bagel vendor). The sound of “40 paraya taze simit” (fresh bagels for 40 kuruş) became an integral part of her daily routine. This simple yet nostalgic detail captures the essence of life in Şişhane, where traditions and daily practices created a strong sense of community.

The Cultural Heritage of a Sephardic Jewish Family

Sephardic Roots: A Family’s Journey

Ece Temelkuran was born into a Sephardic Jewish family, a community with deep historical roots in Turkey. Her father’s family originally hailed from Bursa, while her mother’s side came from Izmir. The Sephardic Jews, who were expelled from Spain in 1492, found refuge in the Ottoman Empire and established vibrant communities in cities like Istanbul, Bursa, and Izmir.

The Legacy of Ladino: A Language of Heritage

One of the most distinctive aspects of Sephardic culture is the Ladino language, a Judeo-Spanish dialect that has been preserved for centuries. Temelkuran’s father was fluent in Ladino, along with Turkish, Armenian, and Greek. This multilingualism reflects the cosmopolitan nature of Istanbul’s neighborhoods, where different communities lived side by side, sharing their languages and cultures.

The Influence of Sephardic Cuisine

Sephardic cuisine, with its rich flavors and traditional dishes, played a significant role in Temelkuran’s upbringing. From savory börek (filled pastries) to sweet delicacies like lokum (Turkish delight), the food of her childhood was a blend of Sephardic and Turkish influences. These culinary traditions were not just about nourishment; they were a way of preserving cultural identity and passing it down through generations.

Balat: A Melting Pot of Cultures

The Historical Significance of Balat

Balat, located on the western shore of the Golden Horn, is one of Istanbul’s oldest neighborhoods. It has long been a hub of cultural diversity, home to Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Muslims. This multicultural environment shaped the neighborhood’s identity, making it a living testament to Istanbul’s rich history.

A Jewish Center in the Heart of Istanbul

For centuries, Balat was known as a predominantly Jewish neighborhood, particularly for the Sephardic Jews who settled there after their expulsion from Spain. The area was filled with synagogues, Jewish schools, and businesses, creating a vibrant community that thrived for generations. Temelkuran’s father’s family lived in Balat before moving to Şişhane, further connecting her to this historic neighborhood.

The Legacy of Hahambaşılık: A Spiritual Connection

Temelkuran’s maternal great-grandfather served as a Hahambaşı, or Chief Rabbi, in Izmir, a position of great spiritual and communal significance. This connection to religious leadership highlights the deep ties her family had to the Jewish community in Turkey. The role of the Hahambaşı was not just religious; it was also a position that required diplomacy and leadership within a diverse and sometimes challenging environment.

The Architectural Beauty of Balat

Balat’s streets are lined with historical buildings, many of which are adorned with ornate balconies, colorful facades, and intricate ironwork. These architectural details reflect the neighborhood’s past and the various cultural influences that have shaped it. The preservation of these buildings serves as a reminder of Balat’s rich heritage and the importance of maintaining historical sites.

A Childhood of Cultural Integration

The Multilingual Environment of Şişhane

Growing up in Şişhane, Temelkuran was immersed in a multilingual environment where Turkish, Ladino, Armenian, and Greek were spoken interchangeably. This linguistic diversity was a reflection of the neighborhood’s cultural mosaic, where people from different backgrounds coexisted peacefully and learned from one another.

Are you one of those we couldn’t ‘Lolita’?

I loved the articles “menstruation” and “little ‘woman’ children” most, which are about the little girl/woman dilemma related to growing up. While “menstruation” wonderfully explains that growing up is a girl’s first step towards womanhood, “little ‘woman’ children” sends a sad and pathetic nod to the “waiter boy” ‘terminology’ of my childhood. “She has the height but she doesn’t have the brains, weren’t there something plain like this without scallops?” or in short, the days of turtleneck sweaters with jeans (it was forbidden to wear black turtleneck sweaters at that age, you know, “Are you going to be an intellectual, my child, look how well your sisters are at knitting lace and embroidering pillow edges).

Puberty is the age when you are treated like a calf; in other words, the unproductive cow will still be fed and when the time comes, either it will be sent to the slaughterhouse (there are many ways of slaughtering) or it will struggle in the milk-cheese-wool triangle forever. Ultimately, those are the ages when you say, “Ah, my meat and milk should also be sacrificed for the country, I’m going to become an intellectual. At least that’s how it was for our post-80s apolitical cola-burger generation. Although they try to sugarcoat it a bit, our minds were not exactly the “little woman” generation that Ece Temelkuran describes with regret. Of course, there were no weight problems, speaking lines that imitated our mothers, and also “unsupported bra/low-cut” clothes, heavy make-up aka “kokoşlik”, talking about one’s lovers “as if pulling on a husband” in expensive cafes, etc. In the triangle of school, cinema, books or kicking balls on the street, falling down and getting up and breaking your knees; There were no “little women” like Bebek-Nişantaşı-Etiler etc. in that period.

The Importance of Neighborly Bonds

In Şişhane and Balat, the concept of neighborliness went beyond mere proximity. It was about forming bonds that transcended religious and cultural differences. Neighbors looked out for each other, celebrated each other’s festivals, and shared their joys and sorrows. This sense of community was a cornerstone of life in these neighborhoods and left a lasting impact on Temelkuran.

The Role of Women in Preserving Culture

Women played a crucial role in preserving cultural traditions within the family and the community. Temelkuran’s mother and grandmother were the custodians of Sephardic customs, ensuring that the language, cuisine, and religious practices were passed down to the next generation. Their efforts helped maintain a strong cultural identity despite the challenges of assimilation and modernization.

Festivals and Celebrations: A Blend of Traditions

The festivals and celebrations in Şişhane and Balat were a blend of Jewish, Christian, and Muslim traditions. Whether it was lighting the Hanukkah candles, attending a Greek Orthodox Easter service, or participating in a Muslim wedding, these events were opportunities for the community to come together and celebrate their shared humanity. Temelkuran’s childhood was filled with these multicultural experiences, enriching her understanding of the world.

Reflections on Istanbul’s Changing Landscape

The Transformation of Şişhane and Balat

Over the years, Şişhane and Balat have undergone significant changes due to urbanization and modernization. The old buildings have been replaced by new constructions, and the once-vibrant communities have dispersed. Temelkuran reflects on how these changes have altered the character of the neighborhoods, leading to a loss of cultural diversity and a weakening of the bonds that once held the community together.

The Impact of Gentrification

Gentrification has played a major role in transforming Şişhane and Balat. As more affluent residents moved into these areas, property values soared, forcing many long-time residents to leave. This influx of new residents has brought economic benefits but has also led to the erosion of the cultural fabric that made these neighborhoods unique.

Preserving Cultural Heritage in a Modern World

Temelkuran emphasizes the importance of preserving cultural heritage in the face of modernization. She advocates for the protection of historical buildings, the promotion of multiculturalism, and the recognition of the contributions made by diverse communities to Istanbul’s history. For her, the past is not just a memory but a source of inspiration and identity that should be cherished and preserved for future generations.

Conclusion

Ece Temelkuran’s “Kilo Köşe Yazısı” is more than just a reflection on her childhood; it is a tribute to the rich cultural heritage of Istanbul’s Şişhane and Balat neighborhoods. Through her vivid recollections, she brings to life the stories of a bygone era, where different cultures coexisted harmoniously, enriching each other’s lives. Her writing serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving cultural diversity and the need to cherish the memories and traditions that shape our identities. As Istanbul continues to evolve, Temelkuran’s reflections offer valuable lessons on the significance of community, heritage, and the enduring power of cultural integration.

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